The intermittent travelogue and non-commital blog of Randolph B. Houston, Jr. AKA Randy Houston AKA Huey Esquire AKA Paper Longstackings AKA DJ Baby Chocolate Soup AKA That Cat From Generrus
Sunday, June 29, 2008
VacAsian Day Twenty Nine (31 May, Los Angeles and Hutto/Avondale)
VacAsian Day Twenty Eight (Friday, 30 May, Tokyo and Los Angeles)



Thursday, June 19, 2008
VacAsian Day Twenty Seven (Thursday, 29 May, Tokyo)
The movie "Groundhog Day" starred comedy legend Bill Murray and told the story of a Pennsylvania weatherman who awoke several mornings in a row to find that he was living out the same day over and over. It would be an exaggeration to say that we felt like we were living out that movie... but we awoke at 4:30 today to a sunny sky in an effort to check out the action at Tsukijishijo (see VacAsian Day Twenty Six). Just like the previous morning, we dressed and found our way to Shiodome Metro station. The "Groundhog Day" effect took a weird turn there.Tokyo is the last place we expected to have problems using our ATM cards; however, Tokyo was the first (and only) place we had such a problem. As a result, this being our last full day in Tokyo (and, sadly, the last full day of
VacAsian), we were running low on yen. (In fact, you might say we had a yen for some yen. (Robin wrote that joke too, y'all.)) Unfortunately, it was not until we reached the Metro station that we realized just how few yen we had. Long story, short, we only had enough yen for one roundtrip Metro ticket, so instead of one of us going alone, we opted to go back to our room and sleep. We re-awoke up at 8:45... exactly the same time we re-awoke yesterday.NOTE: Neither of us saw our shadow during our brief trek, mainly because we were in the underground concourse and never stepped outside. Take that for what it's worth.
We went down to breakfast and the weather had taken a turn for the cold and wet. We located the one ATM in the Shiodome area that would take our ATM cards, ran some other errands, and came back to the room to work on postcards and continue fighting with FedEx. Recognizing this as our last day of VacAsian, we decided to brave the elements after a few hours and headed out.
Welcome to The Hotel Senso-Ji!
From the theatre, we took a taxi to Gonpachi, a popular, highly-rated Japanese restaurant in a traditional Edo-style building. The food - mostly skewers of meat and seafood - was amazing, and in stark contrast to the clientele at the theatre, the restaurant was easily 95% Westerners and Australians.Tuesday, June 17, 2008
VacAsian Day Twenty Six (Wednesday, 28 May, Tokyo)
The American Heritage Dictionary defines "early" as "occurring, developing, or appearing before the usual time." When we say we got up "early," this morning, we mean we got up EARLY!!!Robin decided that we were going to check out the Tsukiji Fish Market (or Tsukijishijo for those of you playing along in Japanese) this morning, based on recommendations from friends who have visited Tokyo and our guidebooks. Ostensibly, neither fish nor fishmongers have any concept of time, so the "action" at Tsukijishijo takes place in the 5 AM time frame.
Yes. 5 AM. In the morning.
THIS is why Japan is known as "The Land of The Rising Sun."We rushed down to Shiodome Metro station, only to find that the first train headed toward Tsukijishijo didn't leave until 5:19, a full hour after our far too early wakeup. We got to Tsukijishijo station around 5:30 and began the long walk out of the station to the market. As we walked, we passed group after group of obvious tourists walking in the opposite direction back in to the train station. Tokyo is a large and popular city, so normally passing groups of tourists wouldn't be cause for alarm. But it was 5:30 in the morning.
Have you figured out where this is going yet?
We emerged from the Metro station literally at the doorstep of Tsukijishijo. It was quiet. Eerily quiet. Another tourist walked in to the guard station near the entrance to ask for a map or general directions, but emerged with the bad news that none of the guidebooks shared: Tsukiji Fish Market is closed on Wednesdays.
After breakfast, we went hunting for, and eventually found, Kiddie Land, another colossal toy store, and Oriental Bazaar, an indoor market-like shop, where we did a bunch more shopping. We took in the sights in that area, including a street of shops with names oddly translated to English. Our favorite? Store My Ducks. (Your guess is as good as ours.)You may remember our advice from VacAsian Day Twenty about never shipping anything internationally. In case you've forgotten, here it is again: DON'T EVER SHIP ANYTHING INTERNATIONALLY!!! Huey spent several hours in the afternoon working on customs documents so that his spectacular, "would be lost without her" Office Manager Reina Bernfeld could be run around in overlapping circles by scores of different reps from FedEx, each of whom would give her distinct and in some cases conflicting instructions. Robin napped. Again, if it doesn't fit in your suitcases, leave it for housekeeping. We promise they'll give it a good home.
Thanks to our Metro station fairy godmother (see VacAsian Day Twenty Five), we had tickets for a Yomiuri Giants baseball game at the Tokyo Dome tonight, so we plotted our route on the Metro map and headed out in the late afternoon for the 6 PM game. The Yomiuri Giants may be best described as the New York Yankees of Japan: there are other professional teams in Japan, perhaps even better teams, but the Giants are by far the most popular. The Tokyo Dome is surrounded by Tokyo Dome City, an entertainment complex with shops, restaurants, clubs and bars, and an amusement park with a roller coaster and Ferris wheel. The Tokyo Dome itself is older,
so it's no longer state of the art, but it remains the largest venue of its type in Japan.
fans sang along very loudly. The fans also chanted in unison, but what they said was lost on us. (We were two of maybe 100 Westerners in the entire 43,000 seat venue.) The time between half-innings was limited to 2 1/2 minutes, which was visibly counted down on the Jumbotron. There was no 7th Inning Stretch, no "Take Me Out To The Ballgame," and no Cracker Jacks. There were, however, hot dogs, pretzels, and Cokes.There was also an amazing ice cream treat that we've not seen in the States, but for which we're thinking about becoming the exclusive US importers. Imagine two flat bowls made of the same edible styrofoam-like material from which cake cones are made. Then imagine you fill each bowl to the brim with ice cream. Finally, take one bowl and place it upside down on top of the other, merging the ice cream together, and seal the edges of the edible bowls, creating a hermetically-sealed ice cream sandwich that won't melt all over your hands or fingers. After we saw the people in front of us buy and devour one, we literally tracked the salesgirl all over the stadium, waiting for her to come back so we could each get one. And when we did....
It's a shame this was not CAKE, and cannot therefore be rated on the HACS Scale, because it was one of the best desserts we have had on the entire VacAsian (and we've had our share)!Final Score: Tohoku Rakuten Golden Eagles 1, Yomiuri Giants 6.
"... Root, root, root for the home team, if they don't win it's a shame, for it's one, two, three strikes, you're out, at the old ballgame!"
Monday, June 9, 2008
VacAsian Day Twenty Five (Tuesday, 27 May, Tokyo)
We "slept in" until 9 this morning and went down to the tasty, but sparse (relative to our other hotels) buffet breakfast in the lobby. After breakfast, we spent an hour or so pouring over our Tokyo books and e-mail advice from friends - by the way, thank you to everyone who offered us advice on the countries and cities we visited on the VacAsian (you know who you are!); we would not have had NEARLY as much fun without your input - trying to figure out how we wanted to first tackle Tokyo. True to form, we opted to head to the Ginza Shopping District to kick things off.
"superfluous" come to mind - and Huey is convinced that a visually impaired person could wander into a Tokyo subway car unaided and eventually end up where he or she needs to be. It is virtually impossible to get lost, and, unlike Family Mart, there are plenty of signs that are not in Japanese characters to guide you no matter which language(s) you speak. In addition, the Metro stations connect to underground concourses that connect buildings and multiple stations and are filled with shops, restaurants, and other services, so that depending on where you are going and what you need, there's often no need to go above ground or leave the station.
We emerged from the Metro in the heart of the Ginza district and our first stop was the Sony Showroom, where the latest Sony consumer electronics are on display, most of them not available to the public (or at least in the US) yet. From there, we window-shopped in a host of major department stores, where Huey was reminded of the myriad differences between Asian market and department store shopping. We had lunch at I Primo Italian Restaurant (pizza and salads - we needed a change) in one of the department stores, then headed back to the Sony Showroom, where an unexpected adventure ensued.
the following night. The transaction complete, we thanked our impromptu interpreter and Metro station sherpa and, like a Nipponese fairy godmother, she disappeared to catch her train.
and it was a short train ride to what was one of the best meals of our entire VacAsian. Though it is not cheap by any stretch of the imagination, Kobe beef is probably the juiciest, most flavorful, melt-in-your-mouth steak either of us have ever had the pleasure to taste, and we enjoyed salads, miso soup, plum wine, and, of course, hot tea with our steaks. Completely stuffed and thoroughly satiated, we took the Metro back to our hotel and called it a night.Saturday, June 7, 2008
VacAsian Day Twenty Four (Monday, 26 May, Hong Kong and Tokyo)
Today began early, as we had a big morning planned before we head to the airport for our final VacAsian stop, Tokyo, Japan. We dressed and packed before taking a taxi to the Star Ferry for a daylight crossing to Hong Kong Island. Once there, we took another taxi to Luk Yu Tea House in the Soho section of Central Hong Kong to meet a few of Robin's colleagues from Exelon and others, who were in Hong Kong for a few days en route to a wedding in Shanghai. (While it is technically possible to take a taxi from Kowloon, where we were staying, to Hong Kong Island, the taxi drivers in each don't know the geography of the other very well and generally stay off of each other's "turf.") Luk Yu Tea House is widely hailed as the best dim sum (as in "you eat some and then give dim sum") in Hong Kong, and of course, we had to see for ourselves.
The dim sum at Luk Yu was, in fact, remarkable and authentic, but Huey missed the variety he is used to in New York or even the finer places in Austin. The ambience and staff of Luk Yu was, however, second to none. There were few dim sum carts at Luk Yu; instead, the waitrons toted the vittles around on trays strapped around their necks likes those used by the pillbox hat-wearing "cigarette, cigarillo" girls in old movies (or shot girls in "classy" nightclubs). Unfortunately, we did not have access to carbon dating experts, so we could only guess the average age of the waitrons, but words like "ancient," "prehistoric," and "primeval" come to mind. One of the sharp white-jacketed
waiters proudly showed off a Polaroid of himself at age 50... posing with Kublai Khan and Marco Polo. One of the dour, gray-smocked waitresses proudly boasted about her original Ming Dynasty vase... that she made herself in third grade art class.
our way back to the hotel, where we finished packing and grabbed a taxi to the airport. We had to shift some things around to manage the weight of our bags, but otherwise we had no baggage issues. The best part of check-in was the unsolicited free upgrade to Premium Economy, which included more legroom, bigger, better seats with legrests, and a power outlet at each seat, which allowed Huey to work on this Blog while we flew.Monday, June 2, 2008
VacAsian Day Twenty Three (Sunday, 25 May, Hong Kong)
We had a great buffet breakfast at the hotel this foggy morning, then taxied to Tung Ching, an area adjacent to the airport, where we jumped on a cable car and climbed up through the clouds to Ngong Ping Village and the Po Lin Monastery, home of the Giant Buddha.Despite it being late in the morning, the fog was not burning off, so it was cool, but muggy when we reached the top. Ngong Ping Village is not a quaint, provincial burg, but a tidy, modern (and contrived) collection of shops, cafes, restaurants, and more shops between the cable car station and the Po Lin Monastery. We bypassed the shops
and beelined for the Monastery and the Giant Buddha. At the entrance to the Monastery, we stopped and studied a map that seemed to indicate that the Giant Buddha was through the Monastery grounds on the opposite end from where we were. Only after we walked all the way through the Monastery grounds and back to the map did we realize that we were standing directly in front of the Giant Buddha, just steps away from its base. So thick was the fog that we missed the enormous bronze statue resting on its 20+ story pedestal. So "giant" was the Buddha and so close to us was it that had it been human, it could have slapped us in the backs of our heads as if to say "I'm over here, HueBin."
We mounted the long and slippery staircase up to the Buddha, still barely able to see it. Closer to the top, the detail and enormity of the statue became more clear. When we reached the top - yes, Huey made it to the top - we were in awe of the sheer size and power of the massive idol, a rendition of a traditional Buddha sitting cross-legged on a lotus flower. All around us, Buddhists prayed and meditated as the fog continued to swirl. Even for non-Buddhists, it was an enlightening and humbling experience. By the
time we returned to the base, the fog had again become so thick we could no longer see the Giant Buddha.As you probably guessed from our not so subtle foreshadowing, we stopped to shop in Ngong Ping Village on our way back to the cable car station. We enjoyed the cable car ride down, as we had the car to ourselves. We taxied back to the hotel, where we wound down a bit before walking to another part of Kowloon to have a late lunch at a Cantonese restaurant recommended by Robin's boss Mark van der Helm's wife, Vanessa, a native of Hong Kong who provided us with a great list of things to do, see, and eat in and around Hong Kong. Unfortunately, though none of
our Hong Kong guidebooks told us so, Fook Lam Moon closes between lunch and dinner, i.e., when we got there, so we walked back to the hotel, window shopping along the way.We returned to Fook Lam Moon a few hours later for dinner, where Huey tried shark fin soup. The food was good, the service was impeccable, and the prices were ridiculous, thought not "Mezzaluna in Bangkok ridiculous" (see VacAsian Day Nineteen). We stopped for ice cream at Ben & Jerry's on our way back and stopped at Temple Street Night Market for more shopping before returning to our room.
As this was our last night in Hong Kong, rather than pack it in, we headed out to the Star Ferry for the short ride across Victoria Harbour from Kowloon to Hong Kong Island to take pictures of the brilliant Hong Kong skyline. The "crossing" takes less than 10 minutes in each direction, but we got great pictures both from the Harbour and from the Hong Kong
side. Back at the hotel, we finished postcards, journaled, blogged, and began to pack. Tomorrow we leave for "The Land of the Rising Sun."
VacAsian Day Twenty Two (Saturday, 24 May, Hong Kong)
There's something to be said for getting a good night's sleep and taking a day to relax when you have been going non-stop for almost four weeks. We learned that today.We slept in today until 10 AM, then ran errands like searching for a place to have our laundry done and seeking out Band-Aids to protect Robin's heels. We enjoyed a tasty lunch buffet, took it easy, napped, read, and blogged. In the late afternoon, we got the proverbial "wild hair," recalling that we are on VacAsian with a lot to do and not nearly enough time to do it all, and dressed for afternoon tea.
We took a taxi to the famous Peninsula Hotel Hong Kong, where we indulged in their 80th Anniversary Double Chocolate Cake (HACS rating of 7.1 due to some inexplicable bits of orange in the cake) and a pot of Oolong tea. We also shopped in the high end Peninsula Shops, but unlike our market escapades, this shopping was strictly of the "window" variety. (Huey - and probably most men reading this - is at a loss to understand why ANYONE would pay US $1000 for a purse, even if it does say "PRADA" on it.)
Since 1993, while he was in law school in Chapel Hill, Huey has cut his own hair. (Many of you are probably nodding your heads now, thinking "Well THAT explains it!") About every two weeks, he takes out his electric clippers and shears off his ebony locks, resulting in the ultra-simple do with which those who have met Huey are likely familiar. This, however, being Day Twenty Two, well... remember young Gary Coleman? In any case, the "stylist" (Huey was actually asked if he wanted a "cut and shampoo") didn't do as good a job as Huey does himself, but Huey is now proud to boast that he has spent a grand total of US $20 on haircuts in the last 15 years (and his highlights look fantastic!).
This being a new city, you can probably guess what we did next. Yes, more market shopping. As luck would have it, The Temple Street Night Market was but three blocks from our hotel. This market was small enough that, despite its disorganization, we were able to hit every stall and comparison shop. Huey had a VERY soft ice cream cone from Mister Softee (yes, a Mister Softee truck in Hong Kong!) and our bargaining skills were polished, but alas, we didn't buy anything.PSYCH!!!
Back in the room, Huey called one of his goddaughters, Haley Ruth Matthes, to wish her a Happy Belated 11th Birthday (her birthday is May 23, the day after Robin's; his other goddaughter, Ashante Jana Sawyer, also 11, was born just two months earlier). If you ever want to blow a tween's mind, call her from halfway around the World out of the blue to wish her Happy Birthday. Works like a charm!
Sunday, June 1, 2008
VacAsian Day Twenty One (Friday, 23 May, Hong Kong)
Sadly, as spectacular as our day was, we did not see Tigger (other than on the Pooh ride), which likely would have made Robin giggle like a schoolgirl and smile until her face ached. On a brighter note, we ended the long, full day with a shopping spree - so many of you reading this will get to share in the joy of the day with us - and a brilliant fireworks display that was the ultimate exclamation point on a day chock full of them.
Exhausted, but happy, we taxied back to the hotel, bought some postcards at a shop across the street, showered, and went to bed. We're thinking tomorrow we may just take it easy.


